Man, do I have great respect for people who do what they love to do and the ‘it’ factor that makes the brain go. Surfers talk about chasing the biggest swell as an experience. And you can see it in their faces as they speak about riding that wave. It’s amazing. It’s emotional. It’s something you’ll never forget. I’m from California, and I’ve never tried surfing, but as I was sitting there listening to these people share their feelings, I feel the same way.
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